Packing for slow travel: one 30 litre bag for three weeks

What fits in one 30 litre backpack for three weeks of trains, ferries and walks, what I left at home after ten years and the three things I never travel without.

Illustration of a teal backpack between a coral water bottle and a folded map with a dotted route.

Three weeks of trains, ferries and walks fit into one 30 litre backpack. The rule is simple: pack for one week and wash on the way. After ten years of slow travel my list has 34 items, and I use every one of them.

Why one small bag

A bag you can carry on your back all day changes how you travel. You can walk from the station to the guesthouse, take the bus instead of a taxi and step onto a ferry without looking for luggage racks. And you are never tempted to buy things you would have to carry home.

Clothes for a week

  • Three shirts that dry overnight
  • Two pairs of trousers, one of them for walking
  • Underwear and socks for four days
  • One warm layer of wool
  • A rain jacket that packs into its own pocket
  • Walking shoes that also look fine in a restaurant

I wash in the evening, every second or third day. Wool and synthetic fabrics dry overnight even in a cold room; cotton does not.

My tip

Roll your clothes and put each kind in a cloth bag. You find things without unpacking everything, and the bags double as a pillow on a night ferry.

Tilda Brennick

For trains and ferries

  • A water bottle you can refill
  • A cloth bag for food from the market
  • Earplugs and a sleep mask for night trains
  • A notebook for tickets, times and addresses
  • A paper map of the region

The notebook is the one I make myself now, the Route Journal, with a table of stages at the front. The paper map is not nostalgia: it shows you which ferry crossings and railway lines exist, which a phone screen rarely does at a glance.

What I left at home

A second pair of shoes, a laptop, a hairdryer, travel guides on paper and anything I packed for a situation that might happen. If you need something on the way, you can buy it, and you will rarely need it.

The three things I never travel without

  1. A small knife with a corkscrew, packed in the checked bag on the rare flight
  2. A scarf that is a blanket, a towel and a sun shade
  3. A list of the people I want to send a postcard to

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