November is a good month for the Cinque Terre. The five villages on the Ligurian coast are quiet, the local trains between them take a few minutes, and the coastal paths that are open are almost empty. Expect some rain and some closed restaurants.
At a glance
| Where | Liguria, between Levanto and La Spezia |
|---|---|
| The villages | Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, Riomaggiore |
| Getting around | Local train along the coast, a few minutes between villages |
| Paths | Some sections close after heavy rain; check with the national park |
| Stay | In one village for several nights, or in La Spezia |
Getting there and getting around
Regional trains run along the coast from La Spezia and Levanto and stop in all five villages. Most of the line runs through tunnels, so you see the sea only at the stations, but the trains are frequent and the hops between villages take a few minutes.
The Cinque Terre Card covers the trains and the paths that charge an entry fee. Out of season I bought single tickets, which worked just as well for three days.
Five villages, one line
Monterosso has the long beach, Vernazza the harbour, Corniglia the cliff, Manarola the view and Riomaggiore the steep main street.
- National park since 1999
- World Heritage site since 1997
- One train line links all five
Corniglia, the one on the cliff
Corniglia is the only village that does not reach down to the sea. From the station a staircase of 377 steps, the Lardarina, climbs to the village. A small bus runs too, but the steps are the better way up, with the sea behind you on every turn.
My tip
Climb the Lardarina in the late afternoon. The light on the vineyards is warm then and the bar at the top still has a table in the sun.
Tilda Brennick
Walking between the villages
The coastal path, the Sentiero Azzurro, links the villages, but sections close after heavy rain and landslides. Before you set out, check on the website of the national park which sections are open that day. The higher paths through the vineyards are longer and often open when the coastal path is not.
Wear proper shoes. The paths are narrow and rocky, and in November the stones can be wet until noon.
What November is like
Some hotels and restaurants close for the winter, but every village keeps a bakery, a bar and at least one place for dinner open. I had a room with a view of the harbour in Vernazza for half of what it costs in summer, and the trains were never crowded.
